Slow travel in the north.
Routes I have actually walked, cycled and driven — with the boring details that guidebooks leave out: ferry timetables, gravel roads, and which month the mosquitoes arrive.
Destinations
Lapland in September
Between the last mosquitoes and the first aurora — a week of fells, empty roads and very expensive coffee.
Åland by bicycle
Five days, no car, two ferries and a few hundred kilometres of granite and apple orchards.
Lakes and logging roads
Where the map ends and the forest begins. Notes on silence, saunas and unpaved detours.
Practical notes
I write down the things I wish I had known before leaving: how long a leg really takes, where the last shop is, and what breaks first when the weather turns.
The interactive map is built on OpenLayers and uses open tiles — it works for planning and for checking a route offline-ish when the signal comes back.